Korzhenevskaya peak is located in the north part of the ridge of the Academy of Sciences, in 13 km to the north of Communism Peak (I. Somoni). The peak was discovered by the Russian geographer Nikolai Korzhenesky, he called the peak in the name of his wife, Evgenia. Currently, there are about 10 routes to climb it, but the most popular and safe is the route running along the south ridge.
Climbing is associated with big risks, so you need to be prepared physically and psychologically.
1. Duration of the tour: 25 days
2. Season: July-August
3. Level of difficulty: 8/10
4. Number of persons: 1-3 (with one guide)
5. Insurance: necessary
6. Documents: no border pass required
7. Accommodation: in Base Camp Moskvina – in tents (must be booked previously), above – self-tenting (decided with a guide)
8. Nutrition: optional – self-catering or use the services of a cook (only in BC Moskvina, above – self-catering, decided with a guide)
9. Program by day: (may be adjusted depending on the level of physical training and qualifications):
1 day: Arrival in the Dushanbe, transfer to the Jirgital
2 day: Arrival by helicopter to the Moskvina base camp (4200m)
3 day: Acclimatization in BC
4-9 days: Acclimatization: overnight stays in camp 1 (5300m), in camp 2 (5800m), in camp 3 (6400m)
10 day: Descent to Moskvina BC
11-12 days: Days of rest, preparation for climbing
13-15 days: Ascent to camp 3 (6400m)
16-17 days: Climbing on the Korzhenevskaya peak
18 day: Descent to Moskvina BC
19-20 days: Helicopter flight from BC Moskvina to the Jirgital, then to Dushanbe; completion of the program
(+ 5 days – reserve days due to bad weather and possible waiting for helicopter flights)
Usually the program of ascent to the peak of Korzhenevskaya is combined with the program of ascent to the peak of Communism (in this case, first of all, guides work according to the program for Korzhenevskaya peak).
10. List of required personal equipment:
1) Shoes:
– mountaineering boots;
– trekking boots;
– sneakers (or other light footwear for the base and first camps)
2) Headgear:
-hat / baf;
-balaclava:
-cap
3) Warm mittens or gloves (preferably two pairs of each)
4) Clothing:
– waterproof jacket and pants;
– thermal underwear;
– t-shirts, shorts;
– down jacket;
-warm polartec jacket;
– socks (several warm and several light)
5) Sun cream
6) Sunglasses
7) Hygienic lipstick / balm
8) Backpack
9) Sleeping bag
10) Tourist rug
11) Headlamp flashlight and battery reserve
12) Trekking sticks
13) Carabiners
14) Crampons
15) Climbing harness with lanyard of self-insurance
16) Helmet
17) Ice ax
18) Jumar
19) Belay device
11. Our services:
-guide services with knowledge of Russian and English;
-organization of transfer *;
-nutrition**;
-accommodation**
* transfer organization is nesessary, is not included in the total price of the program;
** nutrition, accommodation are done at the request of customers and are not included in the total price of the program
12. Cost: calculated based on the number of participants and their preferences
