Pobeda Peak is the highest mountain of Tien Shan, the most difficult and northern in the program of the seventhousanders of the former USSR “Snow Leopard”. The crest of Pobeda peak consists of three peaks: Western peak (Vazha Pshavela – 6918m), Eastern peak (7079m) and Main peak (7439m). The most popular route runs through the north ridge of the Western peak. Despite the routes of increased difficulty and harsh conditions, many sportsmen try to climb the Pobeda peak, testing for strength and courage themselves.
Climbing is associated with big risks, so you need to be prepared physically and psychologically.
1. Duration of the tour: 25 days
2. Season: July-August
3. Level of difficulty: 8/10
4. Number of persons: 1-3 (with one guide)
5. Insurance: necessary
6. Documents: a border pass (it must be issued no later than 2 months before the start of the program)
7. Accommodation: For accommodation in the high-altitude camps, you will need to buy a package or book places for tents.
8. Nutrition: optional – self-catering or use the services of a cook (available only in the base camp Inylchek, above – self-catering, decided with a guide)
9. Program by day: (may be adjusted depending on the level of physical training and qualifications):
1 day: Arrival in the Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel / guest house
2 day: Transfer from Bishkek to the Karkara camp (~ 460 km), accommodation in a camp
3 day: Arrival by helicopter to the South (or North) base camp Inylchek (4000m)
4-9 days: Acclimatization hiking: overnight stays in the camp 1 (4200m), in the camp 2 (5200m), in the camp 3 (5800m); ascent to an altitude of 6000m
10 day: Descent to the BC Inylchek
11 day: Rest day, preparation for climbing
12-13 days: Ascent to the camp 3 (5800m)
14 day: Ascent to a height of 6000m, setting up the camp 4, overnight
15 day: Ascent to the Vazha Pshavela (6918m), setting up the camp 5
16 day: Traverse along the Western ridge (up to 7200m), setting up the assault camp
17 day: Ascent to the Pobeda peak, return to the assault camp
18 day: Descent to the camp 3
19 day: Descent to the BC Inylchek
20 day: Helicopter flight from the BC Inylchek to the Karkara Camp, return to the Bishkek, end of program
(+ 5 days – reserve days due to bad weather and possible waiting for helicopter flights)
10. List of required personal equipment:
1) Shoes:
– mountaineering boots;
– trekking boots;
– sneakers (or other light footwear for the base and first camps)
2) Headgear:
-hat / baf;
-balaclava:
-cap
3) Warm mittens or gloves (preferably two pairs of each)
4) Clothing:
– waterproof jacket and pants;
– thermal underwear;
– t-shirts, shorts;
– down jacket;
-warm polartec jacket;
– socks (several warm and several light)
5) Sun cream
6) Sunglasses
7) Hygienic lipstick / balm
8) Backpack
9) Sleeping bag
10) Tourist rug
11) Headlamp flashlight and battery reserve
12) Trekking sticks
13) Carabiners
14) Crampons
15) Climbing harness with lanyard of self-insurance
16) Helmet
17) Ice ax
18) Jumar
19) Belay device
11. Our services:
-guide services with knowledge of Russian and English;
-organization of transfer *;
-nutrition**;
-accommodation**
* transfer organization is nesessary, is not included in the total price of the program;
** nutrition, accommodation are done at the request of customers and are not included in the total price of the program
12. Cost: calculated based on the number of participants and their preferences
