Communism peak. Winter 2020. The assault.

Several articles have been written about this expedition already (links to them – at the end of the essay), so I’ll describe only the day of the assault by our small group.



We went to bed only at one a.m. in the morning, because we climbed  for a long time and also moved  the tent under Dushanbe peak to the bridge yesterday. Then we  warmed up, dried.I tried to get up at three a.m. I couldn’t and  set the alarm at four a.m. It is felt that we didn’t rest. Blowing.  A thought flashed – “Fu***, we’ll sleep and go down.” But no, too simple. I started to move, got out from  the sleeping bag, turned on the burner. Guys don’t want to get up yet.

I warmed up my shoes and said with full confidence:

– So, whatever you want, but I’ll go and going out. It will be seen.

Sanya quickly reacted, warmed the water forme. We decided – I’ll go out, if the wind allows, I’ll go. The rest of us will follow me. I put on  everything that I had. Put on a mask. Warmly. Came out.

– People, I’ll go. It’is  bearable here. Catch up!

The time is 5:40 a.m. Surprisingly good! I understood that it was necessary to control the pace, save power, but i rushed into a battle! I saw that someone had left the tent and on the “Shovel” already.

8 a.m. Communication:

– Styopa, everything is OK. I’m at 100m away from the crest. The rest of us  are below.

I saw that Sanya is catching up  me confidently. Well, I started to get tired, plus on the crest  the wind started to blow well, I had to warm my hands.

10 a.m. Communication:

– Styopa, I’m at the beginning of the ridge. Sanya is nearby. Leha is not visible.

– Accepted. We see you in the scope. Leha are  going,  too. Work. I’m on a regular reception.

Sanya overtook me and waited on the top. I reached through the power already. Here it wasn’t necessary to squeeze out all the strength in the morning.

That’s all ! Top! Top of the mountain, top of the expedition, top of the team, top of the project! My peak! The quintessence of many years of work, training, searching, plowing, fears, perseverance, friendship!

I get in touch:

– Base to mountain. I’m on the top …!

Emotions are overwhelming, I can’t speak even.

– Accepted, we are watching! I congratulate the first Winter Snow Leopard  in the World from all walking in the mountains population of the earth! Hug you, bro! The time is 11:35. Be careful on the descent.

Hugging  with Sanya. Thanks for him. He went for the second time to the Communism peak  in this expedition just because of us. Work  twosome were dangerous, and he refused to climb to the Korzhenevskaya peak  for the sake of our project to strengthen and support us. Thank you, Sanya!

Taking pictures. Sanya remains to wait for Leha. I go down the rope and wait for Leha  at the beginning of the railing, help  to snap into  them.

– That’s all, Leha, one rope to the top and to the Leopard! Modify!

I’m slowly starting the descent myself.

13:10. Communication from Leha:

– Base to mountain. I’m on the top!

– Accepted! Congratulations to the second in the World and the first in Russia Winter Snow Leopard!

At this time, in a parallel, the Mishka Danichkin’s group – Arthur Usmanov, Andrey Alipov, Sergey Krasovsky climbing to the Korzhenevskaya peak.

13:17. Communication from Misha:

– Base to mountain.. Misha and Arthur are on the top!

– Accepted! Congratulations to the third Winter Snow Leopard!

Everything! Program of the expedition worked out to the maximum! Now down, gently.

About 3 p.m. I go down to the tent. Sanya -at 4 p.m.. Leha – at 5 p.m.. Leha is not feeling good. No matter how to descent  today.

6 p.m. Communication.

– Mountain to base. Guys, the wind on the top will be  70-80km / h in the morning tomorrow , for dinner it will increase to 90km / h. Think. I’m on a constant reception.

At 19:00, having a little rest and having warmed up, we got out of the tent. Cosmos! Packed and go down.

Slowly  but confidently.

10:30 p.m. Communication:

– Base to mountain. We are in a cave.

– Everything? Is the Leha with you?

– Yes, that’s all. Everything is OK. We are tired..

– Accepted. Well done, that came down! EC until 8:00 a.m.

Author: Seliverstov Sergey

Sanya is at the top of the Communism peak


Leha is at the top of the Communism peak


Mishgan is at the top of the Korjenevskaya peak


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